Q: Do I need to be home at the time of the application?

No. We will do the application, leave an invoice with watering instructions, and a flag in the yard indicating we have been there. We can call the night before if you have a locked gate, dog, or just want to be notified by phone the day before your treatment.

Q: What is a pre-emergent application?

Pre-emergent applications are put down to help prevent many seeds from sprouting, including crabgrass. It remains active throughout the spring and most of the summer months when the seeds begin to germinate

Q: Do we have to stay off the lawn?

If granular fertilizer is used, it is almost always safe to go onto the lawn. (we still ask you wear shoes etc. until watered in) If liquid weed control is used, allow the chemical to dry on the grass before children and pets are allowed on it. Drying time will vary with weather conditions. To be completely safe, wait 24 hours, then water.

Q: If I want to plant new grass seed this spring, can I plant seeds after a Pre-Emergent treatment?

No. The pre-emergent will also stop all new grass from growing also. An alternative option may be to plant seed very early, as the grass grows to a regular mowing height --- mow the grass three times. After it has been mowed three times, a pre-emergent application can be applied.

Q: What if it rains after an application?

Rain is beneficial following a fertilizer, crabgrass, or insect control application. If it rains following a broad leaf weed application (for dandelions, etc.), give the product 1 to two weeks. If at this time the weeds do not die, give us a call and we'll come back to re-apply the weed control.

Q: How much water does a lawn need?

In general, most cool season grasses (Nebraska is predominately Kentucky Bluegrass) need about .5 to 1 inch in the cooler months. In the hotter months, watering 1 to 2 inches. In the summer months it is recommended you water your lawn 2-3 times per week, for about an hour each section. Many factors such as the soil and weather all have a role in the lawn's water needs.

Q: How often should I water?

Water infrequently, but make sure the water goes deep into the ground so that water penetrates to the roots. Exceptions to this general rule would be for lawns that have new seed or sod. Otherwise, please avoid frequent, light watering.

Q: What is the best time of the day to water?

If you have a choice, watering in the morning is best. Avoid midday due to evaporation, and at night due to potential increased chances of some diseases.

Q: How can I conserve water?

To help conserve water, mow your lawn at a higher setting, water in the morning, limit traffic over the lawn, improve turf rooting (by aerating), and avoid watering concrete areas.

Q: Will watering the lawn wash away pre-emergent or fertilization applications?

No. Watering enhances and spreads out the application. However, if a liquid application is applied, please wait until the application is fully dried before watering.

Q: How high should I mow my grass?

Please do not mow your lawn too short, particularly for cool season grasses such as Kentucky Blue Grass. If you mow the grass higher it usually provides for a deeper root system, looks better, and is less likely to have weeds invading. The recommended mowing height for Kentucky Bluegrass is 2.5 ? 3.5 inches.

Q: How much of the leaf blade should I cut each time?

One third or less at any one cutting is the most you should cut off. Any more than that can cause major problems and encourage more weeds, diseases, etc.

Q: Should I mulch or bag my grass?

When mowing only a third or less with each cutting, you can safely mulch. The mulched grass will quickly decompose. As a result, nutrients and water from the leaf blade will go back into the soil. Bagging is helpful when the grass is really tall or when there are a lot of leaves on the lawn.

Q: Is important to keep my mower blades sharp?

A dull blade can encourage diseases. A shapened blade makes a clean-cut and keeps the yard healthy and always looking its best.

Q: Is aeration a big help to my lawn?

Yes aeration is extremely helpful. Some of the benefits include:
• Less water run-off or standing water
• Loosens compacted soil, such as Nebraska clay, and increases the availability of water and nutrients.
• Enhances oxygen levels in the soil, encouraging root growth and enhancing the activity of thatch-decomposing organisms.
• Increases the lawn's drought tolerance and improves its overall health.
• Extremely beneficial before seeding because the seeds get into the holes

Q: What are grubs and why should I worry about them?

Grubs are actually the larval stage of a variety of different kinds of beetles, including May and June bugs and voracious Japanese beetles. Adult beetles lay their eggs in the soil in mid to late summer. As the eggs hatch, they develop into the white-wormish looking larvae. As the larvae grow, they work their way down to the root zone of your lawn where they eat the roots. Grub control is largely a matter of timing so that they can be controlled in their early stages of development and before they go deep into the soil and go dormant for the winter.

Q: I have moles in my lawn. Does this mean I have grubs?

No. Moles mainly feed on earthworms. However, they do also feed on grubs and may interact together. But by getting rid of grubs does not mean you will get rid of Moles.

Q: How can I get rid of Moles?

There are many options. Call today, and we will go over how we can help you get rid of the Moles.